Grooming and trimming the English Setter

The aim of trimming is to enhance your dog’s good points and minimise any not-so-good aspects. Trimming should be unobtrusive. The breeder of your puppy will often be willing to advise, or even trim the dog for you by arrangement. The areas for attention are ears, neck and throat, back legs below the hock, and feet. Good trimming tools are not cheap but they give a far better result and make the job a lot easier. Everyone has his or her own methods, but here is one.

Several times a week, comb your dog thoroughly to remove any knots or tangles. It is far easier to remove these at the outset, rather than let them get worse. Use a comb with medium-spaced teeth with rounded ends – there are some ‘anti-tangle’ combs with rotating teeth, which are really effective. Finish the job off by brushing well with a good quality brush – this will massage the skin and helps the natural oils reach right down to the ends of the feathering.

Check your dog’s ears for cleanliness – ears are not a setter’s strong point, and any wax should be gently cleaned away using a good ear-cleaner. If there is inflammation this should be attended to urgently, as problems can become chronic if ignored. If you see a problem consult your vet.

Trimming the coat can be carried out every few weeks, and is not such a daunting task as one may think. You may wish to do a bit at a time if either you or the dog aren’t used to this, or it may be helpful to ask a fellow setter-owner to guide you first time. You will need a pair of thinning scissors (the type that are serrated on one side) and also a straight pair – small hairdressing scissors are fine. You will also need some nail clippers. There are different designs, but it doesn’t matter which sort you choose. The sort with a guard can be better for wriggly puppies.

So – ears first. These can be done with clippers or with thinning scissors. It is probably easiest if the dog lies down. Hold the ear flap underneath with one hand and thin upwards towards the top of the ear, combing frequently. Take little snips at the top of the ear to blend into the coat on top of the head. Always cut either upwards or downwards into the coat, never across it or you will get ‘tramlines’. You may also wish to trim the hair quite closely on the side of the head under the ear flap – this helps the ears to look neat and helps to keep the area clean. Complete the other ear to match.

Next – neck and chest. This can be done with clippers if you have them, but thinning scissors are fine (it just takes longer). The idea is to thin the underside of the neck and the throat area, as far down as the point of chest – you can feel that clearly, just about where the feathering gets longer. If unsure, look at some pictures of show dogs. If the dog sits, with it’s chin held up high, it should be clear where to trim (imagine the dog wearing a V-neck jumper!) Again, blend the coat into the sides of the neck, as it will be longer on the top and sides of the neck.

Good, you’ve completed the most complicated bit!

Next, trim from hock to ground (the hock is the big joint on the back leg). This is done with thinning scissors too. Again, don’t be tempted to cut across the natural lie of the hair.

Last bit, and this is where the straight scissors come in handy. With the dog lying down (unless you are a contortionist!) trim round the edge of each pad with the straight scissors. Go round each toe individually.

Nails should be clipped as necessary, as long claws can make a dog’s feet most uncomfortable (imagine wearing shoes that are too small for 24 hrs a day!) If you accustom your puppy to having it’s feet handled regularly, cutting claws will be less of a chore. Bear in mind a blood vessel goes down the centre of each nail. If you are unsure how much to cut, go easy and take a little off at a time. If you do make a claw bleed, don’t panic! It will soon stop.

Finally, draw the long hair between each toe through to the underneath of the foot, and trim off with straight scissors. If any wispy bits remain, trim carefully with thinning scissors, working parallel to each toe on the top of each paw. Trimming the feet is most important, as dead hair and mud can collect between the toes, causing soreness and irritation (and muddy carpets too)

So, you should now have a neatly trimmed setter, tidy and well groomed. If you find you have trimmed a little too much, don’t worry – it will soon grow!

Related pages: Health : Showing : The right dog for me?

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